Odd Birding Moments In Kazakhstan

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Most of the time I was in Kazakhstan, I just kind of looked around with an overwhelming sense of gratitude and wondering, "How the heck did I get here?"

wood-sandpiper

I also had some strange birding moments.  Take the above wood sandpiper (it looks very similar to the yellowlegs we see in the US).  This should have been a target species for me in it's native habitat.  However, I had already seen one--almost a year to the day I took this photo on the Steppes.  This time last year, Clay Taylor and I were on a digiscoping team at the World Series of Birding.  Right before we arrived, a wood sandpiper had been reported in Delaware, so we both headed over to see it.  And now, here Clay and I were watching it in it's natural environment.  I looked at Clay and said, "Can you believe this, we saw this species last year."

"Yeah," he said, "3000 miles away."

Who would have thought that a year later we'd be in Kazakhstan watching it in it's native environment.  Life is strange that way.

There were other birds too, like the European birders were always quick to point out the common cranes--a beautiful species...that I also saw last year in Nebraska--how weird, I should have been way more excited about that bird.  Not that it wasn't cool to see, but just strange that there would be birds I had already seen as rarities in North America.

There were some odd challenges on this trip.  As one of only three Americans in the group, I was totally in the minority and  much different target birds than the many European birders.  To them, lapwings, wagtails, and ruffs were common birds.  To me, they were lifers.  There are some birds I'm content to get a brief look and trudge on for more unique species, but there are some iconic birds like northern lapwing that I really wanted a good look at.  I didn't get the look I was hoping for of a lapwing, but I'm sure I'll be in England at some point.

black-lark

The European birders were very excited about black larks...and they were hard birds to get close to.  Many wanted to get it's photo, but being a bird of open space, they were wary and it's hard to sneak up on a bird without any cover for you yourself to hide in.  But it seemed as though we stopped for just about every black lark we passed.

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The closest we got to a lark was this young one about ready to fledge.  It used its cryptic plumage to blend in with the surrounding vegetation rather than fly away from potential predators on uncertain wings.

ruffs

Meanwhile, a couple of the Brits thought I was nuts for wanting the bus to stop to stop for ruffs.  These are a charismatic species of shorebird that sometimes make it to the US--it's rare bird worthy in my state, but it's a bird I have not managed to see.  To have a chance to see one--let alone a whole flock was just too much.  I asked the bus to stop for a photo.  One of the Brit's said, "Oh, that's not much of a look, let's keep going."

"Oy," I said, "we've stopped for a bunch of black larks, we can stop or this girl's lifer ruff."

He was right, it wasn't the best look at a ruff--they're barely poking above the grass, but this was as good as it was going to get for me on this trip.

All part of the fun of negotiating birds on a trip.  I could understand their logic.  This would be like me leading a trip in North Dakota to go see a Baird's sparrow and someone was freaked out and wanted to stop because they just saw their lifer Baltimore oriole fly over the bus.  My logic would be, "Orioles are feeder birds, we can get it later, let's go for the harder to see Baird's sparrow."

However, that person may not have another shot while they are in the country--all part of the fun and challenge of birding!

I Learned Why It's Called A Rookery!

Hey, if you're looking for a good reference of collective bird names, check this out.  I don't know about you, but I'm feeling  about as giddy as a a conventicle of magpies. I've had more than one person ask me why heron colonies are called "rookeries" and I've never gotten around to looking up the answer.  Well, I had the chance to find out first hand why they are called that.

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We found a few spots in Kazakhstan where several large nests were built in the trees--not unlike heron nests.

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Only these were not built by herons, but were built by rooks.  They look like crows with a sort of reverse goatee thing going on.  The area around their bill is featherless and shows pale gray skin.  As we were looking at a rook in the field guide, my buddy Clay read, "Rooks nest in colonies called 'rookeries."

We both looked at each other and said, "Duh!"

I was excited at this realization--ah rooks--nesting together in a rookery--like a heron rookery.  I was surprised that I didn't figure this out sooner.  I have been vaguely aware of rooks, but since they are like crows and crows in my neck of the woods are not colony nesters, I never put two and two together.

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Rooks are a common bird in Kazakhstan and in Europe.  One of our fellow participants by the name of Mike Weedon thought it odd that I came all the way to Kazakhstan to get a photo of what would be a common garden bird for him--but one person's common bird is another's lifer.

Here's a video that isn't all that exciting, except that you can hear other rooks calling the background.  I chuckled because I realized that when I was a kid and watched the movie, The Last Unicorn, rook calls were used in the background.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mMx3D63ZMxQ[/youtube]

The Steppe Family

So in some ways it was like being around one large blended family when birding the Kazakh Steppes:  What gull is that?  Steppe gull.  What eagle is that? Steppe eagle? Oh, cute! What mammal is that? Steppe marmot. steppe-eagle1

Above is a Steppe eagle being mobbed by a hooded crows, rooks, and carrion crows (apparently the crows did not get the memo that they should be Steppe crows).

Now, if you're wondering why is this area called The Steppes--is it one large stair case? No, it's basically short-grass prairie and I think the word steppe comes from a Russian word...which I don't have the keyboard to spell.  Although, I just went to Babel Fish and typed in "Steppe" and it gave me this: Степь.

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Quite a bit of the birding was like birding in North and South Dakota.  But unlike North Dakota where we're only seeing less than 1% of the prairie that was once there, in Kazakhstan...it goes on and on and on.  Our tour info read that there are less then 6 people per square mile in Kazakhstan.  When you got out of the cities, you could feel how that number was true.

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Above is a pair of Steppe marmots...kind of like groundhogs where I live.  Although, with their coloring, they kind of looked like over sized prairie dogs.

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Most in our group where digiscoping our adventures--using point and shoot cameras or SLRs attached to our spotting scopes to get photos.  A few in our group would use their own cameras.  It was fun to watch them sneak up closer and closer to the marmots.  I actually have video of their movements...but I'm pretty sure I'd destroy some European relations if I posted it.  As the photographers crouched closer and closer...

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...the marmots crouched lower and lower in response.  One finally went down in the burrow.  The remaining marmot did not appear to buy our efforts at hiding:

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It stood guard and barked at us.  Here is a video and you can hear the high pitched barking (and lots of wind).

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BUp0szhgJvg[/youtube]

We all got our shots and then left the barking marmots in peace.

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I'm sure that marmot is feeling very macho and said to its partner,  "Did you see that?  That group of twenty humans stopped near our burrow, about a half dozen of them closed in and my mighty bark forced them to flee.  I am Macho Marmot, Terror of the Steppes!"

Just don't try that strategy with a Steppe eagle, dude.

Landing In Kazakhstan

We departed Frankfurt, Germany for Kazakhstan.  Our flight left in early afternoon and between the long flight and time change, it was well past 11pm when we arrived in Astana, Kazakhstan. kazakhstan-airport

As we de-boarded the plane, a woman in a corner wearing a lab coat and mask aimed some kind scanner at us to see if anyone was carrying a significant fever (presumably over swine flu fears).  We got our bags, made through the above security screening and taxi drivers and were on our way to the hotel.  The taller building had these odd lights surrounding their structures which gave the illusion that they were sparkling.  We checked in and I made to my room a little after midnight.  I called my husband through Skype to let him know I was alive and what my initial impressions were.  I told him I had to meet the group at 6:30am and he told me to get to bed.  As soon as I hung up, I heard outside my hotel room door:

"Hey, Shaz, you awake?"

It was my buddy Clay Taylor.  I could hear mischief in his voice, so I said, "You betcha!"

"You gotta come out and see this!"

I stepped out and found on the hotel's spiral staircase:

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that the jet lagged and somewhat slap happy Swarovski employees had artfully displayed all of their spotting scopes onto the stairs.  Pictures were being taken at all angles and all this was going on well past 1am and we had to meet at 6:30am.

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When I made it back to my room to settle in for a few hours sleep, I noticed this sticker on the mini bar.  I'm not sure what the hotel was trying to tell me.  Perhaps that I should feel comfortable enough to dawn a Speedo in my room and have some ice cream.

I'm also not sure if I have officially said why I went to Kazakhstan in the blog.  Swarovski Optik is introducing some new equipment including spotting scopes, eye pieces, and digiscoping adaptor.  They invited a group from the US and Europe to not only test out this new equipment but to also witness some of the work they are funding with the sociable lapwing with BirdLife International.

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When the group introduced themselves at breakfast that first morning, I was struck that only Corey Finger of 10,000 Birds and myself were the only attending from the US.  I was also the only one there remotely representing a birding publication from the US (you can find my articles in WildBird Magazine).  The rest were editors of other birding publications from England, Germany, Italy, all over Europe--I'll go more indepth later, I have a new affection for birding with Eupopeans--especially the Brits.  It's like birding with regular people who happen to have a strong interest in birds.

Anyway, with the group of people who were invited, I was honored to be included as an attendee and was constantly looking around asking myself, "How the heck did I end up here?"

Proving once again that the Talking Heads Letting The Days Go By is my theme song.

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We started our birding adventure on the Steppes which was basically large tracts of short grass priaire.  So much of it reminded me of the Dakotas.  I had to contain myself as we passed common birds to make it to the assigned birding patch.  But I couldn't help but salivate as we passed dozens of red-footed falcons nesting right off the side of the road.

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However, a pair of demoiselle cranes was enough to force our buses over before we reached our destination.  They were distant, but with the scopes we could get some souvenir shots.  My point and shoot camera isn't strong enough to catch every detail when the bird is at a distance.  When I looked through with my naked eye, I could see this birds blazing red eye--what a cool start to our birding trip.

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One of the common birds we saw right away was this stonechat.  As the birds popped up on the prairie, I was able to get some shots and felt a great relief that I wouldn't as challenging a time taking photos as I did under the heavy tree canopy in Guatemala.

lifer-flamingo

A super exciting bird that I got to see at a great distance was a wild flamingo!  I always thought that I would have to go to Africa to see one of those wild and untamed, but they also breed in Kazakhstan.  Not the best view in the world, but still I was able to make out that iconic shape in the distance.

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I was suprised by the overlap of species that I saw, that I could see in the US.  Above is a short-eared owl--we saw a couple of them.  I love this photo, the owl hidden in some brush, it would be hunting soon...note the big fat pellet on the ground in front of it (even its little ear tufts are up).  This was not the only bird.  At one point, I was watching some waterfowl and I heard the familiar "meep, meep, meep" of a gadwall.  I thought it was a ringtone on my phone and then remembered my phone wasn't working and saw three fly overhead.  It was nice and fun to see some familiar birds.

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I have to step out to do some eagle banding, we will continue our Kazakhstan travels soon.